Phil Brown

Phil Brown - Travel Stories

Island of calm

A visit to Hayman Island in the Whitsundays is the ultimate in relaxation

Qweekend, The Courier Mail, Saturday November 30, 2024

 

Upon arrival at the Intercontinental Hayman Great Barrier Reef, the scene was eminently postcard worthy. Beyond a small phalanx of staff greeting us was the view of a fringe of tropical vegetation framing a beach, turquoise water with a catamaran poised perfectly under a serene blue sky.

We got out of our buggy feeling a little like guest stars in Fantasy Island - for anyone old enough to remember that show. That island was idyllic and Hayman Island is equally so.

It's easy to get there from Brisbane, which helps. We flew Virgin Australia into Hamilton Island and transferred to a flash catamaran launch for a one-hour trip passing through the Whitsunday Passage en route. Hayman is the most northerly of the Whitsunday Islands.

James Cook charted these waters in 1770 and in 1866 hydrographer Commander George Nares gave Hayman its name in honour of Thomas Hayman, the master of HMS Salamander in which they were travelling.

The island itself has a rich history of frontierism, exploration, and deep-sea adventure, having served as a base for early reef study expeditions in the 1920s.

Led by Monty and Honora Embury, passionate advocates for ecology and natural beauty, these expeditions were careful to preserve the island's pristine environment, leaving only a minimal footprint. In many ways, the Emburys were pioneers in the eco-tourism market - long before the term existed - positioning Hayman Island as one of the world's first eco-tourism resorts.

It has been a resort island for 74 years - 2025 is its 75th anniversary year. A major revamp opened in 2019 and it has recently been rebranded from InterContinental Hayman Island Resort to InterContinental Hayman Great Barrier Reef.

Positioned in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef, the resort holds a unique role as the gateway to one of the world's greatest wonders. And there are plenty of opportunities to see the reef on day trips by boat (if you have the sea legs) or by helicopter. Wander along to the Adventure Lounge when you arrive to find out what's on offer. There are walks, snorkelling trips, sunset cruises and plenty more to do.

Mind you, a lot of people seemed to be doing an awful lot of nothing and that's okay too. Because Hayman Island is just so incredibly chilled.

We had a one-bedroom pool access suite in the Pool Wing, which was gorgeous. You just walk out on to the deck and slip into a vast crystalline pool where some people seem to spend much of their day lounging and sipping cocktails. Why not?

The resort has 182 rooms, suites, villas, pavilions and residences (including the one where Elton John stayed a couple of years ago!) along with five restaurants and bars. (They are all good but my favourite is Bam Bam which serves flavoursome pan-Asian food infused with a fresh Australian twist).

There are 15 indoor and outdoor event venues, Hayman Spa and Hair salon, Planet Trekkers Kids Club, two swimming pools, state of the art gym facilities, a recreation centre with tennis camps and a dedicated water sports centre, beachfront activities (kayaking looks fun), fishing charters and so much more to do.

Or just do nothing. We went on a snorkelling trip to Bali Hai (dubbed Bali Hai after the mythical island from South Pacific, although its actual name is more prosaic - Black lsland) and we saw lots of colourful fish and a turtle which was exciting. We took walks and at low tide you can explore the tidal pools off Hayman Beach and spot starfish, stingrays, skates and other sea critters.

You can do a bit of bushwalking too to Blue Pearl Bays 1 and 2 or do the island loop in just under two hours walking. We only got as far as the Whitsunday Lookout, a half-hour trek up a hill for a view that is the quintessential vision splendid. You'll meet the occasional rock wallaby along the way.

The last time I was on Hayman Island I was 17. We had a family holiday, transported to the island by one of those lumbering old helicopters Ansett used to operate out of Proserpine. (We flew in a Sikorsky S-61N VH-BRI according to my research).

I remember going deep sea fishing with my dad, and my brother and I walked to Blue Pearl Bay 1 and snorkelled. That's all I can recall. I've run into lots of people who have their own memories of Hayman over the years.

There were many (too many) decades between my first visit and my second. A third will follow sooner rather than later because we simply loved the place.

It's been years since I have felt that relaxed. 

Phil Brown